Cyanotypes
Who was Anna Atkins?
The cyanotype process was used most famously by Anna Atkins’s in her 12 part book British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions. This was the first book ever to be illustrated with photographs making her a real pioneer of the new art form. Cyanotypes were amongst the first ever kinds of photographs that did not require a camera. In essence, they describe perfectly the meaning of the word ‘photography’ - photo = light; graph = to draw. Therefore, photography = drawing with light.
Atkins was an expert botanist and illustrator of plants. She discovered the cyanotype process after meeting the British inventor Fox Talbot. Atkins neighbour was the astronomer Sir John Herschel and it was he who discovered, in 1842, that when exposed to UV light (i.e. sun) a paper soaked a with a complex iron salt solution captured a blue “negative” image, once the salts had been rinsed away. For obvious reasons, Herschel named these prints Cyanotypes or blueprints.
As well as the blue background which suggested the water from which her plants had originated, Atkins must have been pleased with the way the cyanotype process captured the tiniest and most subtle of details of the plants she was studying.
What are the advantages of cyanotypes?
The cyanotype process is relatively cheap and easy to use. A wide range of surfaces can be coated with the mixture of chemicals and you don't need a darkroom or any complicated equipment. Perhaps this is why artists are still using the process, sometimes to make quite large and unusual photographs.
Some examples of cyanotypes
For example, here is a mattress which has been soaked with chemicals and then used to capture the outline of a sleeping person. A set of tiles has also been used to create a puzzle like composition of plant forms. Finally, the curling forms of magnetic tape spilling from cassettes echoes the plant forms captured by Anna Atkins all those years ago at the dawn of photography.
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Image #1:
I began by using quite heavy objects. These created clear (negative) shapes making quite a strong composition. You can see the shadow cast by the scissors where the light has crept under the blades. However, there is not enough detail or texture in the image to make it particularly successful.
Image 2:
In my second attempt I wanted to use a lighter material so I chose a tape measure. You can see some of the measurement marks on the tape at the top of the image. Where the tape was not in direct contact with the paper the image is more faint. I really like the effect created when bits of tape overlap, shielding more light from the paper and therefore creating a whiter shape. The pate looks quite organic, like strands of seaweed or leaves and this reminds me of Anna Atkins' images. I am really pleased with this image. Next time, I would like to experiment with mixing my own chemicals and applying them to an unusual surface, possibly working at a larger scale.
Who was Anna Atkins?
The cyanotype process was used most famously by Anna Atkins’s in her 12 part book British Algae: Cyanotype Impressions. This was the first book ever to be illustrated with photographs making her a real pioneer of the new art form. Cyanotypes were amongst the first ever kinds of photographs that did not require a camera. In essence, they describe perfectly the meaning of the word ‘photography’ - photo = light; graph = to draw. Therefore, photography = drawing with light.
Atkins was an expert botanist and illustrator of plants. She discovered the cyanotype process after meeting the British inventor Fox Talbot. Atkins neighbour was the astronomer Sir John Herschel and it was he who discovered, in 1842, that when exposed to UV light (i.e. sun) a paper soaked a with a complex iron salt solution captured a blue “negative” image, once the salts had been rinsed away. For obvious reasons, Herschel named these prints Cyanotypes or blueprints.
As well as the blue background which suggested the water from which her plants had originated, Atkins must have been pleased with the way the cyanotype process captured the tiniest and most subtle of details of the plants she was studying.
What are the advantages of cyanotypes?
The cyanotype process is relatively cheap and easy to use. A wide range of surfaces can be coated with the mixture of chemicals and you don't need a darkroom or any complicated equipment. Perhaps this is why artists are still using the process, sometimes to make quite large and unusual photographs.
Some examples of cyanotypes
For example, here is a mattress which has been soaked with chemicals and then used to capture the outline of a sleeping person. A set of tiles has also been used to create a puzzle like composition of plant forms. Finally, the curling forms of magnetic tape spilling from cassettes echoes the plant forms captured by Anna Atkins all those years ago at the dawn of photography.
0
Image #1:
I began by using quite heavy objects. These created clear (negative) shapes making quite a strong composition. You can see the shadow cast by the scissors where the light has crept under the blades. However, there is not enough detail or texture in the image to make it particularly successful.
Image 2:
In my second attempt I wanted to use a lighter material so I chose a tape measure. You can see some of the measurement marks on the tape at the top of the image. Where the tape was not in direct contact with the paper the image is more faint. I really like the effect created when bits of tape overlap, shielding more light from the paper and therefore creating a whiter shape. The pate looks quite organic, like strands of seaweed or leaves and this reminds me of Anna Atkins' images. I am really pleased with this image. Next time, I would like to experiment with mixing my own chemicals and applying them to an unusual surface, possibly working at a larger scale.
Photograms
What you need:
Light sensitive paper
As you’re not making an actual replica of a picture it doesn’t matter if your paper gets exposed to light, just be sure not to exposure the whole box. You will need three trays, one for each chemical. Set them up as recommended by the brand for paper development, not film. For ease of reference, label each tray. Okay, you’re ready to go!
How to create positive images
Select your chosen object; usually more absorbent objects work best such as flowers, leaves and plants. You can also create hand prints if you’re sure to wash your hand extremely well straight after. Dip your object into the developer. This is just a dip, shake off any excess liquid. Carefully place onto your light sensitive paper cover with a paper towel. Evenly press down and hold for 40-60 seconds.
Remove, and magic! A black detailed print of your chosen object! Now to keep it there place the paper into the stop for 30 seconds then remove and place into the fixer for 5-10 minutes with regular agitation. Wash off in another clean water tray of a sink for 5 minutes to rid it of any chemicals. Complete!
What you need:
Light sensitive paper
- Three trays
- Developer, Stop and Fixer chemicals.
- No darkroom needed
- Paper towels / kitchen towels would be handy.
As you’re not making an actual replica of a picture it doesn’t matter if your paper gets exposed to light, just be sure not to exposure the whole box. You will need three trays, one for each chemical. Set them up as recommended by the brand for paper development, not film. For ease of reference, label each tray. Okay, you’re ready to go!
How to create positive images
Select your chosen object; usually more absorbent objects work best such as flowers, leaves and plants. You can also create hand prints if you’re sure to wash your hand extremely well straight after. Dip your object into the developer. This is just a dip, shake off any excess liquid. Carefully place onto your light sensitive paper cover with a paper towel. Evenly press down and hold for 40-60 seconds.
Remove, and magic! A black detailed print of your chosen object! Now to keep it there place the paper into the stop for 30 seconds then remove and place into the fixer for 5-10 minutes with regular agitation. Wash off in another clean water tray of a sink for 5 minutes to rid it of any chemicals. Complete!
Timeline